Discovering My Sicilian Roots: A Journey to Balestrate

Exploring Family History in Sicily

Plodding through blurry, often illegible World War II draft records, I discovered evidence of my paternal grandfather Antonino's birthplace. It was not Cinisi, as my dad often told me. Instead, his hometown was Balestrate in the province of Palermo, Sicily. I soon found that computerized services in the States have limitations. To truly climb the family tree, I realized I needed to “go out on a limb.” I had to advance my search along this “branch.” (I apologize, that was a bit too easy.)

The answer became clear: I had to go to Sicily. I wanted to explore my grandfather's homeland, “la terra dei miei padri,” from the source. Though I meticulously planned my month-long trip—flights, car rental, and a charming apartment in Balestrate near the Tyrrhenian Sea—nothing could have prepared me for the adventure ahead. When I emailed my landlady Rosalia about my ancestral search, her response was remarkable. She offered to connect me with friends in public records and even pick me up from the airport. Despite my limited Italian and the distinct Sicilian dialect, I knew I had found an invaluable ally.

Arrival in Palermo

After a smooth flight and a Heathrow layover, I arrived at Palermo's Falcone-Borsellino Airport—named in tribute to anti-mafia heroes. As I stepped through customs, I was greeted by affectionate double-cheek kisses from Rosalia and her daughter Martina. Being in my grandfather's homeland, a place he left over a century ago, filled me with profound emotion. The intertwining of history and a spiritual bond deepened as we walked to the airport parking lot under the radiant Sicilian sunset.

The next morning, a rooster's crow served as my alarm. I mused, “Wow! American and Italian roosters speak the same language.” After colazione (breakfast), I drove into Balestrate. The air was thick with history. I could picture my grandfather as a boy wandering these streets. The town's essence blended tradition with a quiet, almost guarded, community spirit. Strangers were met with polite reserve, but Sicilian hospitality would warm to those introduced by locals. Until a Sicilian endorses you, everyone remains an outsider. Then the double-cheek kiss—a symbol of acceptance—became a familiar gesture.

The History of Balestrate

I learned that the town's name stemmed from a crossbow legend, adding to its uniqueness. Each streetlight displayed a representation of a crossbow at its pinnacle. This history made me feel even more connected to my ancestors.

After several days, Rosalia, true to her word, scheduled our visit to the public records office. Walking into the dimly lit building felt like stepping back in time. Instead of modern technology, we found dusty ledgers and an antique IBM Selectric typewriter. My initial skepticism quickly faded. Rosalia's friend and her colleagues embarked on a passionate investigation. Their unconventional methods yielded incredible results: birth certificates, marriage records, and the stunning discovery of my grandfather's siblings and their twelve cousins, some living nearby.

The warmth and enthusiasm of these women made the experience truly memorable. The three-hour journey through my family history left me emotionally drained and profoundly grateful.

A Reunion to Remember

One week later, the grand finale of my journey unfolded. I joyfully met, photographed, and embraced my newfound Sicilian family. We relished pastas, crunched on cannoli, and enjoyed local wine. Those precious moments, filled with hugs and kisses, stand as one of the most profound experiences of my life.

While online genealogy tools offer valuable insights, nothing compares to the tangible connection of exploring your roots in person. Investing time, effort, and resources into this ancestral adventure is undeniably worthwhile. It yields rewards far beyond what you may expect. So, if you want to have a view from high up in the branches of your family tree, em"bark" on your own journey. (Sorry, I did it again.) Anyway, go for it! You won't regret it.

Buon viaggio!